I have been prepping my 30' Etchells for the last couple of weeks, doing fiberglass fabrication and some minor repairs at the keel stub. So I am well stocked up on material be begin work on two topside repairs--storm damage to my hull. That will be easy enough to repair. To prevent this from happening again, I finally sources some parts to build a rub rail.
I have also sources two welders to do some welding for me. I want to get my running lights working. One of them has a portable rig and the other works out of a shop, which requires a lot of work removing things and putting them back on. I'd rather do what I can in place. I need to learn to weld stainless steel and aluminum.
I have also sources a free marine head like what I have. A friend will be shipping it to me, so I will pay him for packing and shipping, plus the cost of the rebuild kit he just bought. It is a $1000 head for a few hundred. I'm pleased about that.
I want to get my new roller furler installed, but I will need help for that. At least three other people, more would be better, just to walk it down the dock. I still need to purchase new wire for my headstay.
My new starter has proven to be reliable. I have been unable to find anyone who will repair my old starter for a spare. The solinoid is good so I may just pull that off and toss the rest.
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Modest Update
I have been busy painting my bedroom and sanding the hardwood floors the last few days. So I have not done much on ECHO except I did buy a new seat for my Groco head. The old one worked but being made of compressed wood was scratched up some. I am replacing it with a plastic, no-slam seat.
The weather continues to be warm. I need to start plumbing soon. I have debated using copper instead of PEX tubing. I've decided to keep the PEX as it is more resistant to freezing. I am not sure how important that is given that the hot water heater and other places are vulnerable to freezing. My big concern is ensuring the tubing is not stressed or vulnerable to other sorts of damage.
Not much of an update, but I am still moving forward.
The weather continues to be warm. I need to start plumbing soon. I have debated using copper instead of PEX tubing. I've decided to keep the PEX as it is more resistant to freezing. I am not sure how important that is given that the hot water heater and other places are vulnerable to freezing. My big concern is ensuring the tubing is not stressed or vulnerable to other sorts of damage.
Not much of an update, but I am still moving forward.
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Lots of new stuff done.
AC Panel: I also repaired a damaged neutral bus on my AC panel. The top left terminal was not tight and that caused high resistance and heat--so it melted. So I replaced it and rechecked all my terminations. 
Groco Head: I also finished repainting and rebuilding my Groco Head. This was fairly involved as I needed a 5/16 threaded rod to put it back together. I won't go into the details but it was a big job and I'm glad I did it, so next time I'll know exactly what to do. I tested it and it seems to work well. This is a very reliable marine head. There is a foot pedal to let water in, and an easy to use long handle to cycle the piston to flush. With a 2.5" piston you could almost flush a raincoat through it. Unfortunately, this head is designed to be used with sea water. In Long Island Sound, that means pumping a lot of silt heavy water which is dirty, smelly and collects in the bottom of the bronze pump. Next I have to repaint the shower pan, cut an access port and bolt it in place. I still won't be done as I have to plumb it, and even that is complicated.
Fresh Flush: I investigated how to modify the head to use fresh water. There is a product called Fresh Flush (below) that makes your marine head act like a home toilet with a tank. Unfortunately, this relatively simple product is expensive. Compass Rebuild: My Ritchie Globemaster compass is now rebuilt ($90). It has a new lens and dual green LED lamps. Unfortunately, when I wiring it up, I discovered the wire feeding it power has an open circuit. It must have gotten tangled and cut on the steering gear. So I will need to trace that and fix that.
The Ritchie tag on the front is new and while the stainless cover looks pretty good as it is, more polishing to brighten it to perfection. The white bracket show above will be replaced with a stainless piece.
I will be thrilled to have the compass light working. Since I have to rewire the compass light circuit, I plan to run a 15 amp circuit to the cockpit. I have a four switch panel that can service 1) the compass light, 2) a bright cockpit light for dining, 3) some dim low power red LED lights to illuminate cockpit foot well, and 4) can be for a "Hey I Need Help!" alarm down below. The question is where will I put the switch panel? I can probably mount in on a pod off the binnacle, which makes wiring difficult, or I can choose and easier to mount more vulnerable location.
And this is not all I've done in the last few days. As long as I keep making forward progress I am happy.
Monday, January 16, 2012
More Bilge Pump Thoughts
I spent the whole day hooking up one of the two Rule 3700 bilge pumps.
Float Sensors: One issue was attaching the float sensor. I tried using extra large hose clamps, and this popped the bilge pump off it's mount. The solution was to go back to using tie-wraps. I tested the automatic switch in a bucket of water. I still need to test it in place to validate that it is working.
Ring Terminal Block: The ring terminal bock worked well. I attached it to a stainless angle bracket used to support the anti-siphon loop in the exhaust system.
Pig Tail Wiring and Corrosion: While the wire splices were working, I cut these out and re-spliced them with new shrink wrap. I found two of the wires somewhat corroded. I cut them back a bit more--still corroded, so I brushed the wire to clean them as much as possible.
The lower pump I just installed was formerly in the upper position and suffered less corrosion than the lower one. I ordered a new plastic mounting bracket for the upper bilge pump. I plan to cut these wires back substantially farther. I have yet to test the float switch.
Submersible Bilge Pumps: Submersible pumps just don't seem to last very long. And these fail because of the wiring gets wet. I was tempted to buy a new Rule 3700 bilge pump. Each of these pumps should put out about 2500 gallons per hour although the check valves might inhibit flow to a lesser flow. So you would think there are good pumps. They are not. I think they are junk because they sit in the water and water gets into the wiring--every time.
The normal price for this pump is $150. Should I replace a bilge pump if I can make it work another year or two--in particular since I have a second back up pump? I decided not to, but I'll keep an eye on both. The new more flexible hose and the terminal block make it easy for me to remove these pumps for maintenance.
Thinking back on all the failed bilge pumps I've repaired, all of them were submersible type pumps and each had corrosion on the wire supplying them with electricity. So it seems the best solution is to mount a non submersible bilge pump well above the bilge as the primary bilge pump. And of course an engine driven high volume bilge pump is still the solution for a serious leak.
In any event, I now have an easy to pull and maintain bilge pump. The new flex hose was a smart upgrade. The terminal block makes it possible to remove the entire assembly for test and service.
Wiring Improvements: I have been running my pump off the main panel. Some people prefer to run it straight from the battery as anyone who shuts off the main panel breaker would interrupt power to the bilge pumps. I leave that breaker on all the time. Still someone might not know that switching it off shuts off the bilge pumps. My plan is to move the bilge wiring power connector to the plus side of the switch, or the battery, and install two bilge pump toggles to override the automatic setting to manual. I am undecided about fusing this circuit or not. A failed fuse would be a bad reason to sink the boat, and submersible pumps don't cause fires. On the other hand a over sized fuse would not be likely to fail and I do have two pumps.
Wet Bilge: I always have 3" of water in my bilge. It bugs me. Some people use wet/dry vacuums for this purpose. My bilge is too deep for that. I'd like to add a non-submersible pump on a manual switch located in a handy spot to suck all this out.
For the time being I have a small oil change pump with a long copper tube that I can use to suck out the last of the bilge water, and then pump it the other way into a larger container for disposal at an auto service station--just like I do for oil changes. Later on, I'll install a more permanent system to dry out my bilge manually.
Still To Do:
1) Test the automatic switch in the bilge by pouring water down there.
2) Rewire both bilge pump controls from an un-switched 12V DC source to the terminal block. (I need two toggle switches for this)
3) Rewire the #2 bilge pump pigtail. (Need liquid electrical sealant)
4) Install the #2 upper bilge pump with new flex hose when the new base comes in.
5) Measure the riser loop--making sure there is 18" of rise above discharge--I probably have at least 12" now.
6) Replace the flex hose on the manual bilge pump with smooth wall hose except for the last four feet in the bilge. Check for anti-siphon loop. (When the weather gets warmer mount this in the cockpit).
Float Sensors: One issue was attaching the float sensor. I tried using extra large hose clamps, and this popped the bilge pump off it's mount. The solution was to go back to using tie-wraps. I tested the automatic switch in a bucket of water. I still need to test it in place to validate that it is working.
Ring Terminal Block: The ring terminal bock worked well. I attached it to a stainless angle bracket used to support the anti-siphon loop in the exhaust system.
Pig Tail Wiring and Corrosion: While the wire splices were working, I cut these out and re-spliced them with new shrink wrap. I found two of the wires somewhat corroded. I cut them back a bit more--still corroded, so I brushed the wire to clean them as much as possible.
The lower pump I just installed was formerly in the upper position and suffered less corrosion than the lower one. I ordered a new plastic mounting bracket for the upper bilge pump. I plan to cut these wires back substantially farther. I have yet to test the float switch.
Submersible Bilge Pumps: Submersible pumps just don't seem to last very long. And these fail because of the wiring gets wet. I was tempted to buy a new Rule 3700 bilge pump. Each of these pumps should put out about 2500 gallons per hour although the check valves might inhibit flow to a lesser flow. So you would think there are good pumps. They are not. I think they are junk because they sit in the water and water gets into the wiring--every time.
The normal price for this pump is $150. Should I replace a bilge pump if I can make it work another year or two--in particular since I have a second back up pump? I decided not to, but I'll keep an eye on both. The new more flexible hose and the terminal block make it easy for me to remove these pumps for maintenance.
Thinking back on all the failed bilge pumps I've repaired, all of them were submersible type pumps and each had corrosion on the wire supplying them with electricity. So it seems the best solution is to mount a non submersible bilge pump well above the bilge as the primary bilge pump. And of course an engine driven high volume bilge pump is still the solution for a serious leak.
In any event, I now have an easy to pull and maintain bilge pump. The new flex hose was a smart upgrade. The terminal block makes it possible to remove the entire assembly for test and service.
Wiring Improvements: I have been running my pump off the main panel. Some people prefer to run it straight from the battery as anyone who shuts off the main panel breaker would interrupt power to the bilge pumps. I leave that breaker on all the time. Still someone might not know that switching it off shuts off the bilge pumps. My plan is to move the bilge wiring power connector to the plus side of the switch, or the battery, and install two bilge pump toggles to override the automatic setting to manual. I am undecided about fusing this circuit or not. A failed fuse would be a bad reason to sink the boat, and submersible pumps don't cause fires. On the other hand a over sized fuse would not be likely to fail and I do have two pumps.
Wet Bilge: I always have 3" of water in my bilge. It bugs me. Some people use wet/dry vacuums for this purpose. My bilge is too deep for that. I'd like to add a non-submersible pump on a manual switch located in a handy spot to suck all this out.
For the time being I have a small oil change pump with a long copper tube that I can use to suck out the last of the bilge water, and then pump it the other way into a larger container for disposal at an auto service station--just like I do for oil changes. Later on, I'll install a more permanent system to dry out my bilge manually.
Still To Do:
1) Test the automatic switch in the bilge by pouring water down there.
2) Rewire both bilge pump controls from an un-switched 12V DC source to the terminal block. (I need two toggle switches for this)
3) Rewire the #2 bilge pump pigtail. (Need liquid electrical sealant)
4) Install the #2 upper bilge pump with new flex hose when the new base comes in.
5) Measure the riser loop--making sure there is 18" of rise above discharge--I probably have at least 12" now.
6) Replace the flex hose on the manual bilge pump with smooth wall hose except for the last four feet in the bilge. Check for anti-siphon loop. (When the weather gets warmer mount this in the cockpit).
Sunday, January 15, 2012
Bilge Pumps
My automatic bilge pumps did not seem to be working. It seemed like a good time to pull and inspect them. I originally set these up with smooth wall hose for improved efficiency. They also have check valves. Each bilge pump is on a custom stainless steel platform on the end of a long angle iron "handle". This is because my bilge is deep. The smooth wall hose is stiff which makes pulling a pump out difficult. So I decided to change the short section between the check valves and the pump with more flexible hose.
I pulled both pumps out and the pickup for the manual pump. The upper pump had a broken base and the sensor was dislodged. The lower pump's sensor had failed. I suspect that is a wiring issue. My plan for today is to reterminate the wires and possibly replace one sensor. I also installed a ring terminal block for easier service.
The sensor/switches I use to activate the bilge pumps do not last forever but they never foul like a mechanical switch. Another one could be used for a bilge alarm.
My long term goal is to add an engine driven high volume bilge pump with an electric clutch.
I pulled both pumps out and the pickup for the manual pump. The upper pump had a broken base and the sensor was dislodged. The lower pump's sensor had failed. I suspect that is a wiring issue. My plan for today is to reterminate the wires and possibly replace one sensor. I also installed a ring terminal block for easier service.
The sensor/switches I use to activate the bilge pumps do not last forever but they never foul like a mechanical switch. Another one could be used for a bilge alarm.
My long term goal is to add an engine driven high volume bilge pump with an electric clutch.
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Navigation Instruments and Ritchie GlobeMaster Compass
NAVIGATION INSTRUMENTS:
I have been researching modifications to my Edson Binnacle. I need to replace my instrument pods and will need to change the guard rail. My goal is to support four navigation instruments and a 12" multifunction display.
At present I have three RayMarine SeaTalk instruments. However, two of my pods housing them were flailed and beat up in a storm. I am not sure what caused this, but something gouged them up pretty bad. It probably happened in the hurricane. So I want to move these into a Quad Housing. The photo above shows the Quad Housing with my existing instruments.
One of the key things I'd like to have on ECHO is a Simrad 4G radar. I'd like to mount it in the housing shown above.
4G radar is the low power, so that makes it safer to use, and uses less power. So that means I will need a Simrad display. My big concern is I want to display AIS data on my display. It seems Simrad doesn't integrate this into the multifunction display. I will have to call Simrad to verify this. This seems like a obvious capability. A navigator wants to know where things are, and if they are moving--which way and how fast. Putting all of this on one display, or even two on a second one down below is a good idea. Personally, I'd like a small display at my bunk so I can keep track of things while resting down below where it is warm.
To mount a radar, I'll need to modify my PushPit--which is not a priority. So I thought I'd start with modifying the binnacle with the offset guard kit, with my existing RayMarine SeaTalk instruments, and add the Simrad equipment later.
Here is what I'm planning to buy for my binnacle in the next few weeks:
1) 58" 1-1/8" offset rail kit: 1610-45-58OS
2) Quad Housing: 2010-205x55
3) Large Radar Housing (12" Navigation Pod): 2030-13x15
COMPASS:
Today I dropped off my Ritchie GlobeMaster SP5 compass to be rebuilt. It will have a new lens and green LED's. I should have it back in one week. Estimate is $80-$90 for this.
However, I may change the stainless body cover so I can add the stainless steel pivoting lens cover--as shown in the above photo.
4G radar is the low power, so that makes it safer to use, and uses less power. So that means I will need a Simrad display. My big concern is I want to display AIS data on my display. It seems Simrad doesn't integrate this into the multifunction display. I will have to call Simrad to verify this. This seems like a obvious capability. A navigator wants to know where things are, and if they are moving--which way and how fast. Putting all of this on one display, or even two on a second one down below is a good idea. Personally, I'd like a small display at my bunk so I can keep track of things while resting down below where it is warm.
To mount a radar, I'll need to modify my PushPit--which is not a priority. So I thought I'd start with modifying the binnacle with the offset guard kit, with my existing RayMarine SeaTalk instruments, and add the Simrad equipment later.
Here is what I'm planning to buy for my binnacle in the next few weeks:
1) 58" 1-1/8" offset rail kit: 1610-45-58OS
2) Quad Housing: 2010-205x55
3) Large Radar Housing (12" Navigation Pod): 2030-13x15
COMPASS:
Today I dropped off my Ritchie GlobeMaster SP5 compass to be rebuilt. It will have a new lens and green LED's. I should have it back in one week. Estimate is $80-$90 for this.
However, I may change the stainless body cover so I can add the stainless steel pivoting lens cover--as shown in the above photo.
Another 15 Amp Circuit--This one forward
Yesterday, without any power working in the forward portion of ECHO, and having a fuse type sub-panel, I decided to pull some wire and hook up one sub-branch light and fan circuit. Today, I hooked up a second berth lamp in the V-berth and a lamp in the hanging locker. The hanging locker is quite dark and I needed light there to service that panel and illuminate the hanging locker itself. I actually installed one lamp and then removed it and installed a second type that I felt was better suited to that compartment.
I also installed some backing on the ceiling of the head and installed a really bright lamp in the forward head. That completes most of the lighting I wanted forward. I may put in one more "berth" lamp at the other end of the V-berth. Each berth needs a fan, and the forward head needs an exhaust fan to complete the all the forward lighting and wiring except for dedicated emergency lighting. So I think I will pull wire for three fans tomorrow, and look into buying some headliner so I can close up the V-Berth, Forward Head, and Hanging Locker. Many boats I've used skippered have two separate lamps in the heads. It makes sense because if one fails, there is another one working so light is always available. I'd like to put in another lamp in the head, but have yet to decide where to put it. Most likely I'll have to remove some more headliner to do that.
I also installed some backing on the ceiling of the head and installed a really bright lamp in the forward head. That completes most of the lighting I wanted forward. I may put in one more "berth" lamp at the other end of the V-berth. Each berth needs a fan, and the forward head needs an exhaust fan to complete the all the forward lighting and wiring except for dedicated emergency lighting. So I think I will pull wire for three fans tomorrow, and look into buying some headliner so I can close up the V-Berth, Forward Head, and Hanging Locker. Many boats I've used skippered have two separate lamps in the heads. It makes sense because if one fails, there is another one working so light is always available. I'd like to put in another lamp in the head, but have yet to decide where to put it. Most likely I'll have to remove some more headliner to do that.
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